The ANZAC Spirit Study Tour- 1 Year On

It has been one year since my odyssey to the Western Front. Time has passed so quickly, yet what I learned during the 2019 Anzac Spirit Study Tour still resonates within me, especially during the current COVID-19 pandemic.

I am so glad to see that Australians are reciprocating the ANZAC Spirit – grit, mateship and a positive mindset – as we tackle the outbreak. In many ways, the current situation and the way in which Australians have responded to it, parallels the actions of Australians during World War 1. Just like the war, this shall pass; we just need to be strong and united during the course of these tough times.

Covid-19 | New Scientist
With the ANZAC Spirit, Australians will overcome COVID-19

In memory of the ANZAC Spirit, I decided to do my part in helping people during these difficult times. Many members of Australian Mensa have recently volunteered to host online events as we are stuck at home. In doing so, they have sacrificed their time and effort to maintain the morale of Mensans across Australia. I wanted to show these volunteers how much we appreciate them, so I sent out an appeal to fellow Mensan children to film thank-you messages for them. I am now collating and combining their videos into one; I really hope that I can cheer the volunteers up!

Personally, the experience has reinforced the importance of never giving up and always doing your best, as the ANZACs did throughout the Great War. Those principles have been very important to my journey competing in the Brain Bee challenge for neuroscience, fuelling my study and helping me win the Australian National Brain Bee Challenge. I will continue to hold these principles as I represent Australia in the International Brain Bee and hopefully achieve my dream of pursuing medicine. Moreover, the study tour also taught me that as human beings, we should always be productive and do something beneficial to ourselves and the community, because if Australians had stopped working to go play video games during World War 1, then we may have lost the war. This epiphany has resulted in me playing less video games and choosing more beneficial hobbies, including watching powerful movies (I recommend Studio Ghibli), writing (I’m doing this right now), learning how to make a website (I’m currently working on an education website) and taking part in a lot of Mensa trivia sessions (they’re super fun)!

My Neighbor Totoro | Reelviews Movie Reviews
My Neighbour Totoro is an excellent movie by Studio Ghibli!

Overall, the 2019 Anzac Spirit Study Tour has acted as a very pedagogical experience for me with long lasting effects one year on. I know that the ANZAC Spirit will help Australians overcome the coronavirus pandemic, as we always conquer the challenges we face. All we can do is be patient, social-distance and, most importantly, contribute to our community. Lest we forget.

Peter Susanto

Chief Minister's Anzac Spirit Study Tour 2019 – Peter – ANZAC ...

Presentation to the NT Chief Minister

Last Friday, 21st June 2019, I had the honour to present my personal insights of the 2019 ANZAC Spirits Study tour to the Honourable Michael Gunner at the Parliament House. The easy-going atmosphere created during this semi-formal presentation helped me to feel more at ease and more free to present. I shared what I have learnt and gained from being involved in this most incredible, life changing experience, both individually and collectively with pride and gratefulness.

The legend of the ANZAC Spirit and of diligent, valiant, friendly soldiers continues in the NT today, an example of which is the strong military presence in the area that highlights the important role of the NT in keeping the Indo-Pacific region safe. The NT also strives to foster strong friendships between Australia and other countries in the region by hosting joint military exercises, such as Exercise Pitch Black, and sporting events such as the Arafura Games.

The Arafura Games, an NT event which represents the ANZAC Spirit

I emphasize the fact that this trip has assisted me in seeing the real impact that war had on people at the time – on civilians as well as soldiers. It made me think of what I can do for the future that will leave a positive legacy, like those fallen diggers’ legacy. They died to allow us to live and thrive in this beautiful country, so we must respect them by not only going to the Anzac Day Ceremony every year but also by doing daily things to make this world a better place throughout our whole lives. One day I would like to help educate other students about the experiences of defense personnel. I hope to establish a project in the near-future for children to share the experiences of defense personnel that they know or even their own experience of their parents being posted abroad through creative videos, photos or articles, because I think that nowadays, many young people do not understand the importance of knowing about the past and how we can learn from it. In my opinion, the program will also assist veterans to open up about their experiences and to feel appreciated and heard. Hopefully, these presentations can then be displayed in places such as the Military Museum to educate even more people about these causes.

Peter

The Takeaway: My Experience on the ANZAC Spirit Study Tour

To Front Line sign at the Sir John Monash Centre

The most unforgettable experience during this once-in-a-lifetime trip was the visit to the Dawn Service at Villers-Bretonneux. Everything about the Dawn Service was so moving. The Voices of Birralee choir singing Advance Australia Fair and Amazing Grace, speeches and laying of wreaths by VIP guests and the public, in addition to the strong sense of remembrance within the attendees were all so remarkably beautiful.

Upon hearing one of the VIP guests reading a letter from a young soldier to his mother, telling her how much he loved her and missed her before he was killed the next day, I was remembering the lives of those who sacrificed for all of us while at the same time reflecting on the impact of the war on all lives around the world and also on how the ANZACs’ experience has shaped the present. The ANZACs allowed us to live in our beautiful country, Australia, and taught us endurance, courage, ingenuity, good humour, larrikinism, and mateship. On the 25th April 1918 in Villers-Bretonneux, Australians showed their ingenious tactics that saw the Australian 15th Brigade liberating the village from the Germans. In his book Pompey Elliott at War: in His Own Words, McMullin wrote:
“General Monash, who had nothing to do with the battle himself, declared that ‘this counter-attack, at night, without artillery support, is the finest thing yet done in the war, by Australians or any other troops’, and he wasn’t the only one to draw this conclusion immediately afterwards.”

Villers–Bretonneux Australian National Memorial

The legend of the ANZAC Spirit and of diligent, valiant, friendly soldiers has been idolized and publicised throughout Australia ever since World War 1. It continues in the NT today, an example of which was the work of many Territorians during the aftermath of Cyclone Marcus, where neighbours assisted each other in the clean-up and supported severely affected people. I believe that the legend of the ANZAC Spirit has especially impacted the NT because Darwin is the closest major city to neighbouring countries and as such is the gateway to Australia that must protect the country, just like the ANZACs did in WW1. The strong military presence in the area highlights the important role of the NT in keeping the Indo-Pacific region safe. The NT also strives to foster strong friendships between Australia and other countries in the region by hosting joint military exercises, such as Exercise Pitch Black, and sporting events such as the Arafura Games.

This trip has helped me see the real impact that war had on people at the time – civilians as well as soldiers and made me think of what I can do for the future that will leave a positive legacy, like those fallen diggers’ legacy. I may not be able to change this world for the better; however, I should be able to change myself for the better. Therefore, I have reinforced my will to become a good son, a good student, a kind, positive person and a good citizen.

I would like to encourage my fellow students to enter the Chief Minister’s Anzac Spirit Study Tour to develop a deeper understanding of the First World War, its scale, the millions of lives lost and why it is so important to learn from it.

Last but not least, I would like to thank the chaperones, Mat MacLachlan Battlefield tours, my other tour members, my school, Haileybury Rendall School and the team at the NT Department of Trade, Business and Innovation for making this trip possible, educational and enjoyable.

To conclude, I would like to encourage all of us to invigorating the past and reflect on them to make our current and future better.

Peter Susanto

Last Day in the Battlefields of France

Yesterday was the last day of our Mat MacLachlan Battlefield Tour. I’m really glad that I was able to go because I’ve learned so much! Although I’m looking forward to seeing my family and Darwin again, I feel sad that I have to leave this amazing place.

After a quick breakfast, we left Amiens on the long journey to Paris. Our last day was about the Battle of Pozieres, where Australian forces were very heavily involved. The battle was a part of the Battle of the Somme and occurred from 23 July to 7 August, 1916. While the Pozieres Ridge and the village of Pozieres were taken, it was at a high cost of 23, 000 casualties.

Destruction from the Battle of Pozieres

First, we went to the Gibraltar Blockhouse on the outskirts of the village, which was a German strongpoint that Australian troops had to conquer to take the rest of the ridge. While under heavy fire, brave Australian troops stormed the blockhouse, allowing other troops to advance. The remains of the blockhouse can still be seen, and you can imagine what it must have been like to attack it.

The remains of the Gibraltar Blockhouse

Next, we visited to the memorial for the 2nd Australian Division, which is a statue of a digger looking out over the ridge. The original statue was of a digger bayoneting a German eagle, so it was taken down by the Nazis in World War 2. We took a final, exciting group photo on the steps to the memorial, where we did some cool poses. The memorial was very imposing and to me it really reflected the power of the ANZACs.

Our tour group under the 2nd Australian Division Memorial

After that, we went to the site of the ‘Windmill’, a windmill that was the highest point on the ridge. Heavy fighting occurred there as a result of this high point. The windmill was cleared to make way for the Pozieres Windmill Memorial to Australia and a memorial to all animals who served in the war. On the opposite side of the road, there is a memorial commemorating the Tank Corps who kept fighting even under heavy fire and often with defective machines.

The Pozieres Windmill Memorial

We then saw Mouqet Farm, which was a German stronghold during the war. Because it is on private property, we weren’t able to come near but the view was clear from afar. The Australians tried to take it to make it easier for British troops to take Thiepval. They had lots of failures and could not take it. Mouqet Farm was taken by the Canadians after the Australians had left the battlefield but by that time, Thiepval had already been taken.

Mouqet Farm now

Our final destination in Pozieres was Mont Saint-Quentin, where a battle occurred to finally defeat the German lines in the area and to cross the river Somme. The mountain has a height of 100 metres and was used as a German stronghold for viewing and defence. The Australians fought very hard and eventually took it on 4 September, 1916, albeit with heavy casualties. 8 Victoria Crosses were awarded for actions during this battle, proof that this was one of the finest Australian actions of the war.

Mont Saint-Quentin

At last, we left Pozieres and drove to Paris, only stopping for a delicious lunch of hot dogs, pies and drinks. I finally had the chance to view the French countryside in all its glory, without thinking about history. When we arrived in Paris, we checked in to our hotel and I had a nice, long sleep. I was exhausted from the trip and knew that the cruise on the river and the flight home would be very long.

After a few hours, we went on a cruise along the Seine river, with a nice meal and everyone from the tour to socialise with. We saw many of the major sights of Paris and had a great time, with lots of champagne and wine (although I didn’t drink it) and some nice fine dining. I said my goodbyes to everyone and we shared our experiences on the tour. Ms McQuaid, one of my fellow tour members, bought me a photo of myself taken while boarding the cruise, which was very nice of her. We arrived back at the hotel at about 11:30 and I only slept at 12:30 because I was packing all my equipment. It was a great way to finish a great trip.

The view on the river cruise

I was very tired today, so I was a bit annoyed when we had to wake up early for our flight. Paris Airport is really nice, with lots of great, cheap items on sale, an arcade and PS4 Station that’s free and great views of the airport. Soon, we will be on our way back to Darwin, home at last. I really enjoyed the tour and have learned loads of things, not just history but also organisation, ethics and I also learned to always commemorate those who sacrificed their lives for us to be free. My next blog will be a conclusion of my journey, what I’ve learned and a recap of all of my experiences on the ANZAC Spirit Study Tour. Thanks for sticking by with my blog!

The free gaming facilities at Paris Airport

P.S. I might keep writing blogs on this page about other things that I’m doing in my life, so keep coming back!

Peter Susanto

Anzac Day in the Battlefields of France!

Today was a once-in-a-lifetime experience that I will never forget. We had an amazing Anzac Day with lots of respect and remembrance and also some very cold, wet weather! I am really thankful for this wonderful opportunity.

We woke up at 3 am on Anzac Day, after I had only had 4 hours of sleep, so I was very tired. We had a super early breakfast and then boarded the bus in rainy, cold weather to go to Villers-Bretonneux for the Dawn Service. When we got there, the security was thorough but fast and efficient, so we managed to get to the Australian Memorial when there were still reasonably placed seats. There were lots of people, so it was very busy there.

At the Dawn Service

After an introduction to the ceremony and an explanation of the morning’s events, the ceremony began. First, the Voices of Birralee, an amazing choir, sang songs about the ANZACs. They also sang the national anthem and ‘Amazing Grace’ later on. I really liked the way these young voices were brave in front of so many people. Next, we were talked to about what happened at Villers-Bretonneux and why the villagers are so thankful for the Australians liberating their village. We were given an explanation behind the meaning of ‘Anzac’ and were played recordings from the quotes of real WW1 people. I felt very emotional when we were played the letter of a young soldier to his mother telling her how much he loved her and missed her. He was killed the next day. Next, official representatives of governments and organisations were invited to lay their wreaths on the steps to the tower. We listened to speeches from the French Defence Minister and the Australian Minister for Defence Christoper Pyne.

Some of the singers from Voices of Birralee

Finally, it was time for us to place our wreaths on the steps. I held our group wreath in one hand and my own, handmade one in the other. Even though it was very cold and rainy, I felt very proud to be Australian and to be able to commemorate the fallen and living diggers, who sacrificed so much so that we can live in a free society. The Dawn Service was over as suddenly as it had started but the memories will last forever.

We then had breakfast with the people of Le Hamel, who were all very nice. I was really grateful that they had taken the time to make all of this food for us. After a hearty, proper breakfast, we went to the Memorial for the Battle of Le Hamel, which was a success as a result of Sir John Monash’s ingenious planning and use of artillery, aircraft and tanks. The memorial grounds also had a former German trench in it, which was exciting to explore.

The Battle of Le Hamel Memorial.

We subsequently went to the Thiepval War Memorial, which holds a massive number of the names of missing diggers from the Battle of the Somme. It has 72, 000 names on the wall, which is way more than the Menin Gate! It was sad that so many died. Behind the memorial, there was also the Thiepval War Cemetery, which has the graves of 300 French and 300 British soldiers. It was interesting to see that the French had crosses instead of headstones, which is traditional for them.

The huge Thiepval Memorial and Cemetery

After Thiepval, we went to the Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial, where troops from Newfoundland fought on the first day of the Battle of the Somme, 1 July 1916. They were inexperienced, so when they encountered delays to the front line as a result of wounded soldiers, they went on top of the trenches and were mowed down. They then charged and were massacred by German artillery and machine gun fire. There are lots of trenches and shell holes remaining, so it is easy to imagine being in the battle yourself. We saw many statues and plaques dedicated to the soldiers of Newfoundland.

The famous Caribou Statue at the Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial

Our final destination before returning to Amiens was the Hawthorn Ridge War Cemetery No. 2, where people could pay respects to their fallen family members or others they wanted to commemorate. There were two other cemeteries very close to it, showing just how many people died in just the first day of the battle. It was very sobering to see the rows of headstones.

The Hawthorn Ridge Cemetery

Finally, we went back to Amiens, where we all ate dinner early and had a nice, early sleep. When we were coming back from dinner, it started to rain really heavily. Unlike in Darwin, the rain was really cold, so we had to run to the hotel, freezing. Tomorrow, we will look at where Australians were most involved in the Battle of the Somme. It will also be our last day of the tour. Time just flies when you’re having fun!

Heavy rain in Amiens

Peter Susanto

Day 2 in the Battlefields of France

Today we left Ypres and drove to Amiens in France. Along the way, we learned a lot about the WW1 battles that occurred in the area, including the Battle of Messines, the Battle of Fromelles and the Battles of Bullecourt.

First, we looked at the Battle of Messines on the 7th to 14thof June, 1917. We went to the New Zealand Division Memorial at the Messines Ridge, where we learned that while the Allies took the Messines Ridge quite easily as a result of great planning, the Australian 4th Division was plagued by issues when trying to go further, including advancing too far and being hit by their own shells and many communication issues. The memorial had two pillboxes that were used for shelter by the Germans, which were really cool. We also saw a statue depicting the Christmas Truce of 1915, which made me glad that even in war, people still had humanity.

The New Zealand Division Memorial at Messines Ridge

After that, we focused on the Battle of Fromelles, which was on 19-20 July, 1916. We visited the Don’t Forget Me Cobber Memorial, which contains a statue of an Australian soldier carrying a wounded soldier back to the home line, showing the Anzac Spirit of bravery and compassion. We also visited VC Corner Cemetery, where 410 unidentified soldiers are buried without individual markers, just 2 large crosses over a plot with about half of the graves in it. It was sad to see that they were all unidentified.

The Don’t Forget Me Cobber Memorial

Next, we went to the Battle of Fromelles Museum, which used interactive displays to show us why the Battle was so disastrous. It turns out that the battle was meant to prevent the Germans from sending reinforcements to the Somme. The 61st British Division and the 5th Australian Division had poor communication between each other, so the Australians kept walking across No-Man’s Land even though the British had failed to take a German stronghold called Sugar Loaf. The Aussies were mowed down and many lay wounded in No-Man’s Land for days until they died. We suffered about 5500 casualties, which is the size of a large suburb in Darwin!

The Battle of Fromelles Museum

Next to the museum is Pheasant Wood, where the bodies of 250 Allied soldiers were found in a mass grave in 2010. All of the bodies have now been moved to the nearby New Pheasant Wood Cemetery, where work is ongoing to identify more of the soldiers there. I hope that by pursuing a career in medicine, I can help families and people like the doctors who are conducting this amazing task.

The Pheasant Wood Cemetery

After a hearty lunch, we explored the battlefield of Bullecourt, where two battles occurred. After the Battle of Messines, the Germans had retreated to a secure line called the Hindenburg Line. Bullecourt and it’s surrounding area was part of it. To penetrate the line, it was decided that the Allies would attack Bullecourt by first using artillery to destroy the German defences, using tanks to destroy barbed wire and then sending troops over. The First Battle of Bullecourt was fought over the 10th and 11th of April, 1917. That was a disaster! On the first day, the tanks broke down and the attack was cancelled, however the British 62nd Division did not receive the message and went over the top, getting mowed down by German defences. The next day, the tanks broke down again or inexperienced crews became confused and fired at their own soldiers, while the incompetent artillery crews had terrible accuracy and were being given incorrect information on targets. 3289 casualties occurred in a couple of hours! The next month, on the 3rd of May, the Allies tried again, this time with better crews and communication. They were able to take the German front line and reached Bullecourt but were not able to take it. There were 7482 casualties in the Second Battle of Bullecourt.

At Bullecourt

Then we got to Amiens, where I will soon wake up at 3 am to go to the Anzac Day Dawn Service at Villers-Bretonneux. I’m super excited for it! I have my slouch hat, lots of gear for the weather and a special, homemade wreath to place. Today, I learned about the importance of communication in effective managing of events, in and out of the battlefield. I can’t believe that this trip is almost at an end. It has taught me so much about the ANZACs that can’t be learned from a book or the internet.

Peter Susanto

Day 3 in Ypres: Bruges!

Today had almost nothing to do with the battlefields because we went to the beautiful city of Bruges, the capital of West Flanders in Northwest Belgium. Bruges was the only medieval city in Belgium that was not destroyed during the two world wars. As a result, many of its buildings are very old. Bruges is a tourism city with lots of chocolate, waffles and lace.

After breakfast, we presented our entries to get into the Study Tour to our other tour group members. Before mine was shown, I explained why I made it as it was: a multimedia video diary with a poem (https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=D3oVla8pWyo). The reason was that I wanted to show something never seen before that was also very powerful. I had recently read Anne Frank’s Diary and Yoko’s Diary (a 13 year old girl who died in the atomic bombing of Hiroshima) and I saw how diaries allow people to show all of their raw, pure emotions and thoughts, so I chose it. I had also written a poem (my initial idea) and incorporated it into my entry. I felt very proud to be able to represent the NT in this way.

Next, we drove to Bruges, where we immediately caught the scent of yummy food and the sight of lace, which is a fine knitted piece of cloth that can be turned into many different designs. First, we took a nice canal boat tour, taking us to the major sites in Bruges. The skipper was very funny, friendly and trilingual (he said everything in English, French and Flemish). I talked to a maker of linen scarves who showed me how he handmakes them using a frame board. We explored the city for the next 4 hours, stopping to eat delicious, loaded waffles for €13 as lunch. I really enjoyed our time there.

The canal boat tour in Bruges

Finally, we visited the Essex Farm Cemetery, which was a former ADS (Advanced Dressing Station). It was where John McCrae wrote his famous poem ‘In Flanders Fields’ in May 1915. The poem describes the war and the massive number of deaths that it caused. As the first medical station that wounded were sent to, many soldiers died there. That is reflected by the random positioning of graves, because in the flurry of war, the bodies had to be buried quickly, where they lay. It was sad to see all those that the incredible World War 1 doctors and nurses, both male and female, could not save. The Cemetery also contains the real life former ADS building, where so many lives were saved, and a memorial to the 49th British Division, the West Riding Infantry Division.

The former ADS building at the Essex Farm Cemetery

We are now waiting in our rooms and will soon watch the remembrance ceremony at the Menin Gate. Tomorrow will be all about the successful Battle of Messines and the unsuccessful Battle of Fromelles. We will also leave Ypres for Amiens. Just two days until ANZAC Day!

Peter Susanto

Day 2 in Ypres: Passchendale

Today was centred around one key World War 1 battle in the Ypres area: the 3rd Battle of Ypres, also known as the Battle of Passchendale. The battle occurred between 31 July and 10 November 1917 and Allied troops had the objective of reaching the Passchendale Ridge. The troops did take the ridge, however at a massive cost and over a much longer time than expected. Over the course of the battle, many advancements and changes were made to warfare.

First, we went to Hill 60 (named after it being 60 metres above sea level), from where 19 underground mines were detonated at the start of the Battle of Messines. The Hill was in the hands of both sides during the war and still has many leftover pillboxes. We also saw the Caterpillar Crater, where one of the mines blew up. It was very moving to see the power that just one mine can have.

A crater at Hill 60

Next, we drove over to the Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917. The museum is very hands on, with a real life replica of a trench and an underground dugout. It also explains what happened at Passchendale and the types of equipment used. I loved the trench replica because it allowed me to better understand what the soldiers experienced.

Part of the replica trench at the memorial museum

After that, we walked through Polygon Wood, where a battle occurred between the ANZACs and German troops that resulted in some of the heaviest casualties of the War. There were over 5000 Australian casualties there. Being physically in the woods gave me a better way of seeing why the woods resulted in lots of casualties in a way that can’t be read in a book: no trenches could be dug through the roots, things were hard to see and there were heaps of pillboxes. We also visited the Buttes New British Cemetery and the Polygon Wood Cemetery, which both have the graves of soldiers who died in the area. The BNBC also contains a large memorial to the 5th Australian Division.

The memorial to the 5th. Australian Division at Buttes New British Cemetery

For lunch, we ate at De Dreve, a cafe just outside the wood. The cafe owner, Johan Vanderwalle, was crucial to the recovery of the remains of 5 soldiers of the Great War in 2006 under a road, the Zonnebeke Five. He showed us a video explaining the process of finding, recovering and identifying the bodies. It was great that they could be commemorated even after all these years.

The De Dreve

We then went to the Tyne Cot Cemetery, one of the largest cemeteries from the war. It has the name of thousands of missing, a memorial to the New Zealanders who fought bravely in the war and over 12, 000 graves. It contains the graves of Captain Clarence Jeffries and Sergeant Lewis McGee, both of whom were Victoria Croos recipients. The sheer scale of the cemetery was insane, showing me just how destructive war is. Although it is very big, I attempted to look at every grave and think for a bit about each of those listed, because it is important to remember that each person had an individual story.

A panorama showing a fraction of Tyne Cot Cemetery
Part of the wall of names at the Tyne Cot Cemetery

Finally, we visited the Langemarck German War Cemetery, where over 44, 000 German troops were buried. Unfortunately, they were buried in mass graves so there was nowhere to specifically commemorate each soldier. The feel and design of the German cemetery is very different to the ones that are Allied, because the German ones are made of darker stone, have more shade and feel more solemn. Langemarck was the site of the first major use of gas in warfare, on April 22, 1915 by the Germans using chlorine gas.

The mass grave at Langemark

We spent the rest of the day in Ypres eating our dinner and socialising with each other. Today was a very interesting, moving, factual day. Tomorrow, we will take a break from the battlefields and have a day in the wonderful city of Bruges, which was mostly spared from damage during both World Wars and is still made of the original old buildings.

Peter Susanto

Day 1 in Ypres!

Today we had an amazing first day in Ypres, a small city in Belgium that was almost completely destroyed during World War 1. It is now a major tourist attraction and a site with many items left behind after the war. It is a very nice city without much traffic and a medieval style.

After a sleep-in and a delicious breakfast with honey croissants and prosciutto, our tour group headed out on a walk around this historic city. After looking at the magnificent Cloth Hall, which was originally a business area during the medieval times, we walked to the St George’s Memorial Church, which was rebuilt after the war. We also saw the remains of the old church, which was ruined by artillery fire. After that, we walked to the Menin Gate, where the names of 54, 896 fallen soldiers with no known graves can be found. It was overwhelming to see how many soldiers died during the war to save their loved ones and country, even though the names on the Menin Gate are only a fraction of them. There were names on every wall, every arch, at the top of the gate and at the bottom. I spent time to look at the wide variety of places and positions that were present at the memorial, because all people are equally commemorated.

The Menin Gate

For the rest of the walk, we strolled next to the moat, looking at the scenery and beauty of Ypres and also the ramparts (city defences) that were used to defend against attacks on the city. Along the way, we came across a “pill box”, which is a small bunker with an underground entrance that was used to gun down attackers during the war. It was very interesting to see how it worked.

A British pillbox in Ypres

When we finished the walk, we were given free time for the rest of the day. Our group had a delicious lunch of waffles and ice cream, before heading to the In Flanders Fields Museum inside the Cloth Hall. The museum has many exhibits that chronicle the whole war and explain how everything was run and a bit about wartime experience, with many displays.

The In Flanders Fields Museum at the Ypres Cloth Hall

Then, we had dinner at one of the nice restaurants next to the Cloth Hall, where I had some amazing escargot and spaghetti bolognaise. After a short break at the hotel, we went back to the Menin Gate to see the daily commemoration ceremony. It was very heartwarming to be part of respecting the fallen soldiers who fought so hard to give others freedom. The Last Post was played, then a bagpipe song, wreaths were payed by those who had people they needed to pay their respects to who are at the Menin Gate, before the Last Post was played again. There are hundreds of people, so it can be hard to see the ceremony. If you want a spot at the front, you will have to arrive before 7 p.m., an hour before the ceremony begins.

During the Menin Gate Ceremony
Delicious escargot!

Tomorrow, we will go to Passchendale, where one of the costliest and longest WW1 battles was fought. It is quite far away from Ypres but it is worth it as we will literally be following in the footsteps of the ANZACs. I’m so excited!

Peter Susanto

Day 1 in the Battlefields of France

Today, we started our Battlefield Tour into the French countryside. Already, I feel more linked and grateful to the ANZACs, while also being more knowledgeable about World War 1. I can really see the value of the Anzac Spirit Study Tour in teaching priceless lessons.

I woke up this morning feeling very excited for Day 1. After breakfast, we checked out of the hotel and boarded the bus, which is ‘first class’. While driving out of Paris, our historian, Mr Riddiford, spoke to us about how World War 1 started. The European nations made lots of alliances and treaties with each other before the war, including France with Russia to defend each other from Germany in 1894, Russia with Serbia in 1807; Britain with Belgium, France and other European nations in 1839 and Germany with Austria-Hungary and Italy in 1882. Then a Serb assassinated the Austrian Archduke, Franz Ferdinand. Austria-Hungary declared war on Serbia, which set off all of the alliances, throwing Europe and its colonies around the world into war.

Our first stop was the Franco-Australian Museum in Villers-Bretonneux, where we saw why Australia is so important to France. Australian troops defended and liberated many of the French villages and cities during World War 1 by fighting ingeniously and bravely. Villers-Bretonneux was defended by Australian soldiers during Germany’s final great push in Spring 1918. After they left, it was invaded by the Germans. The Aussies made a surprise attack on the village on April 25, 1918 and quickly took it back. This halted Germany and was crucial to the victory of the Allies.

The Franco-Australian Museum

Next, we stopped at the Adelaide cemetery, where approximately 1000 soldiers are buried. It was very sobering to see the rows upon rows of graves and the fact that some of the headstones belonged to unknown soldiers had the same effect. I realised how devastating the sheer number of deaths that war causes is. All soldiers sacrifice their lives for the freedom of the ones they love. I felt so grateful for my wonderful life and really felt respect towards them. I felt glad that they are in such a peaceful place now.

After that, we went to the Villers-Bretonneux Australian National Memorial, which is the highlight of the tour. It is one of the largest memorials run by the Commonwealth War Graves Commissions and the site where the ANZAC Day Dawn Service is held. The memorial contains the new Sir John Monash Centre, which is a centre that educates people about the ANZACs on the Western Front. It is a very high-tech place which is mostly made of screens and electronics. The SJMC app and headphones are required to fully experience it, because almost all of the information is presented on your device. The centre also contains an amazing immersive cinema that describes the work of the Australians in the area. That comes with great special effects that make the war come alive. The SJMC educates visitors about every aspect of the war, including tactics, the impact of it, weapons, medical methods and much more. I feel like I know much more about the war now than I did before and knowledge is key to better understanding people and actions.

One of the interactive displays at the SJMC
The immersive cinema at the SJMC

I also made a personal action at the memorial by paying my respects to the Great Uncle of a family friend, Reuben Munney Thomet Oakman. He was killed in the war but has no known grave. I visited his name on the memorial and placed a handmade poppy under his name. I was really happy that I was able to pay my respects to him. The memorial has a large tower with unrestricted, spectacular views of the former battlefields.

After that, we drove to Ypres, which was practically destroyed during the war and rebuilt. However, all of the buildings seem like they are from the medieval or gothic times, because it was rebuilt to resemble the original city. We are staying at the Albion Hotel, which is in the centre of the city and close to the Menin Gate. I wonder what will happen tomorrow?

The entrance to Ypres

Peter Susanto